I did not have the slightest idea what Rohtang Pass has to offer. Perhaps it is just another pass with wide expanse of land and beautiful scenery.
The only thing I knew was what I read about in our itinerary: ...continue to snow point which is the maximum approachable road towards Rohtang Pass (3,978m) depending on the snow condition...
That was hardly any information at all. We started our journey anyhow.
‘How long does it take to reach the pass?’ I asked soon after we started the journey.
‘Erh, if no jam, it takes one hour, if jam, then may be three hours,’ was the reply.
I scratched my head and wondered, ‘Jam on the mountain road, in this remote part of the country?’ but I kept silent.
As we left Manali, all along the way, we could see stalls lining the side of the roads selling winter clothing (especially the overalls type) and high rubber boots; most of them looked old and used.
‘Tek, why are there so many people selling the winter clothing and boots?’
‘They are for rent,’ Tek could read our minds, he continued, ‘to be used at the pass.’
The answer drew a blank on my face. ‘This pass must be a mysterious place, traffic jam, and winter clothes and boots for rent!’ I was puzzled but asked no further (to conceal my ignorance)!
‘See the jam up there?’ Tek asked as he pointed towards the mountain from the front of the car.
I craned forward trying to take a look but saw nothing. When the car turned the corner, I had a peep, but again could not see any jam.
‘Arh, never mind, if the jam is there, I sure get to see it,’ I thought to myself.
About 1-1/2 hours into the journey, we came to a small town called Marhi. This is the last town before reaching Rohtang Pass. We stopped for the toilet. We got back onto the car and had hardly moved ten meters when we were stopped by a policeman and asked where we were going.
The driver then drove to the road shoulder and stopped the engine.
‘What’s happening, Tek?’ we asked.
‘We have to wait, can leave only at 11.00 to help clear the traffic, extremely bad jam further up,’ we were told. I looked at the watch, it was about 10.30.
Yes, from where we were, it was chock-a-block with vehicles, majority of it tourists’ buses, jeeps and cars. Vehicles were everywhere, kind of mayhem. Policemen and officials could be seen directing and controlling the traffic.
We finally left at 11.10. From the steep and winding road, I could then see the jam clearly. Far ahead of us, cars were crawling inch by inch up the steep, narrow and winding road surrounded by the almost barren mountain.
We were literally crawling due to the steep slope and the jam. Manali is located at the elevation of 2,050m, which meant that at 3,978m we would be ascending 1,928m.
We asked Tek where the people were going.
‘Mostly to Rohtang Pass, some to Spiti (which is a district east of the Kullu valley), some going to Leh (a town in the Jammu and Kashmir state, north of Himachal Pradesh),’ Tek reply.
I learnt more about Rohtang Pass as we caught up with the traffic jam.
The pass is 51km north-north-east of Manali and it is covered with snow throughout the year and the road is snowbound for six months of a year. In fact, the road had just been reopened very recently.
The place has also gained the reputation of being dangerous because of the unpredictable snowstorms. But many tourists, mainly locals, still throng the place especially during the summer time to escape the searing heat of the plain.
As I was getting to know more about the place, dark clouds enveloped the skyline and soon it started to rain. My heart sank, ‘Oh, what a day, what a weather!?’
The scenery was splendid; the air, invigorating, but the road...?
Not only was the road steep, winding and narrow, there were stretches which looked treacherous with sheer drop of perhaps 50 to 100 meters; loose boulders and rocks ‘sitting’ precariously on the slope, barely few meters away from the road pavement. And we were going round and round the mountain with many hairpin bends, so many that I became immune to it.
I then remembered that before I left for the trip, a friend who had been to this part of India told me to take along more Panadols. As we were being ‘flung’ from left to right and right to left, I knew why. Fortunately for us, we could ‘withstand’ the rough journey.
Finally the rain stopped and soon we came to a place with hardened snow on both sides of the road, a snow of 10m high or perhaps higher. It was amazing, I had never seen anything like this. We were told it takes months to clear, both manually and mechanically, the snow across the road.
As we were ‘wrapping’ round the mountain road, I looked down and saw a stream of vehicles going round the hairpin bend, bumper to bumper.
Finally, we arrived at the pass. I was overwhelmed by what I saw – motley group of people of all ages and nationalities, in various types of activities, dotting the glistening snow field. A fairyland playground indeed!
People in different type of activities – snow scooters, skiing, ski-tubes (sliding down the slope in rubber tubes), sleigh, horse and yak rides, and people walking about – crossed path with each other. And amidst all these happenings were stalls selling food, souvenirs and equipment for rent.
I asked Tek if accidents do happen and was told ‘very very less’.
Chin and I tried the snow scooter and yak ride. While the yak ride was rather slow and nothing out of the ordinary, the snow scooter ride was fun, exhilarating and hilarious!
We stayed at the pass for about 45 minutes before heading for the next destination – Solang valley for paragliding.
I was very much looking forward to try out paragliding as I had never been to one before. Unfortunately, it started to rain. I was hoping that it would stop by the time we reached our destination. But it was not to be, the rain got heavier and heavier and my hope of a paragliding experience was soaked up by the rain.
We then headed back to Manali arriving at about 4.30. It was a tiring journey but I had a wonderful time and experience at the pass.
.................................................
It was time to say ‘goodbye’ to Manali. After spending a few days in the summer resort which is so full of fun and live, I kind of felt sad to leave. I knew I would miss the place.
I wanted to bid Dharam, the kind, gentle and friendly staff of our hotel, goodbye. But he was nowhere to be seen. The hotel seemed extra quiet that morning. The guests had either left for other places or had gone for their trekking trip.
Our next destination was 270km away down south.
We were travelling alongside River Beas, the same route as we were on when we travelled from Dharamsala to Manali, except that this time, we were on the other side of the river. We were going downhill most of the time, slowly leaving the snow-capped mountains behind. We had a good view of the Kullu Valley on our right. The road was winding but not as winding as the one to Rohtang Pass.
After days of many mountain views and winding roads, any more of these could no longer evoke any excitement in us. Instead, I set my mind and eyes upon Shimla – capital of Himachal Pradesh, Queen of the hill stations and once the summer capital of the British Raj.
Eating (snacks) and sleeping were the ‘highlights’ of the journey while being kept entertained by the Tamil and Hindi songs coming from the car stereo.
We were losing ‘height’ fast and by the time we reached Kullu town (1,219m), which is 40km from Manali, we were running directly next to River Beas. On the way, we passed by farmland of mainly wheat and apple and plum orchards.
The balmy weather gave way to the searing heat as we descended.
Gradually, we were climbing back up again and once again, the pleasant and cool weather returned, a welcoming respite.
By the time we reached Shimla at about 6.15, we were exhausted. I could not wait to get to the room to unwind myself. Much to my chagrin, the officer seemed to be taking forever to record our particulars into his record book.
‘Tek, why are there so many people selling the winter clothing and boots?’
‘They are for rent,’ Tek could read our minds, he continued, ‘to be used at the pass.’
The answer drew a blank on my face. ‘This pass must be a mysterious place, traffic jam, and winter clothes and boots for rent!’ I was puzzled but asked no further (to conceal my ignorance)!
‘See the jam up there?’ Tek asked as he pointed towards the mountain from the front of the car.
I craned forward trying to take a look but saw nothing. When the car turned the corner, I had a peep, but again could not see any jam.
‘Arh, never mind, if the jam is there, I sure get to see it,’ I thought to myself.
About 1-1/2 hours into the journey, we came to a small town called Marhi. This is the last town before reaching Rohtang Pass. We stopped for the toilet. We got back onto the car and had hardly moved ten meters when we were stopped by a policeman and asked where we were going.
The driver then drove to the road shoulder and stopped the engine.
‘What’s happening, Tek?’ we asked.
‘We have to wait, can leave only at 11.00 to help clear the traffic, extremely bad jam further up,’ we were told. I looked at the watch, it was about 10.30.
Yes, from where we were, it was chock-a-block with vehicles, majority of it tourists’ buses, jeeps and cars. Vehicles were everywhere, kind of mayhem. Policemen and officials could be seen directing and controlling the traffic.
We finally left at 11.10. From the steep and winding road, I could then see the jam clearly. Far ahead of us, cars were crawling inch by inch up the steep, narrow and winding road surrounded by the almost barren mountain.
We were literally crawling due to the steep slope and the jam. Manali is located at the elevation of 2,050m, which meant that at 3,978m we would be ascending 1,928m.
We asked Tek where the people were going.
‘Mostly to Rohtang Pass, some to Spiti (which is a district east of the Kullu valley), some going to Leh (a town in the Jammu and Kashmir state, north of Himachal Pradesh),’ Tek reply.
I learnt more about Rohtang Pass as we caught up with the traffic jam.
The pass is 51km north-north-east of Manali and it is covered with snow throughout the year and the road is snowbound for six months of a year. In fact, the road had just been reopened very recently.
The place has also gained the reputation of being dangerous because of the unpredictable snowstorms. But many tourists, mainly locals, still throng the place especially during the summer time to escape the searing heat of the plain.
As I was getting to know more about the place, dark clouds enveloped the skyline and soon it started to rain. My heart sank, ‘Oh, what a day, what a weather!?’
The scenery was splendid; the air, invigorating, but the road...?
Not only was the road steep, winding and narrow, there were stretches which looked treacherous with sheer drop of perhaps 50 to 100 meters; loose boulders and rocks ‘sitting’ precariously on the slope, barely few meters away from the road pavement. And we were going round and round the mountain with many hairpin bends, so many that I became immune to it.
I then remembered that before I left for the trip, a friend who had been to this part of India told me to take along more Panadols. As we were being ‘flung’ from left to right and right to left, I knew why. Fortunately for us, we could ‘withstand’ the rough journey.
Finally the rain stopped and soon we came to a place with hardened snow on both sides of the road, a snow of 10m high or perhaps higher. It was amazing, I had never seen anything like this. We were told it takes months to clear, both manually and mechanically, the snow across the road.As we were ‘wrapping’ round the mountain road, I looked down and saw a stream of vehicles going round the hairpin bend, bumper to bumper.
Finally, we arrived at the pass. I was overwhelmed by what I saw – motley group of people of all ages and nationalities, in various types of activities, dotting the glistening snow field. A fairyland playground indeed!
People in different type of activities – snow scooters, skiing, ski-tubes (sliding down the slope in rubber tubes), sleigh, horse and yak rides, and people walking about – crossed path with each other. And amidst all these happenings were stalls selling food, souvenirs and equipment for rent.
I asked Tek if accidents do happen and was told ‘very very less’.
Chin and I tried the snow scooter and yak ride. While the yak ride was rather slow and nothing out of the ordinary, the snow scooter ride was fun, exhilarating and hilarious!
We stayed at the pass for about 45 minutes before heading for the next destination – Solang valley for paragliding.
I was very much looking forward to try out paragliding as I had never been to one before. Unfortunately, it started to rain. I was hoping that it would stop by the time we reached our destination. But it was not to be, the rain got heavier and heavier and my hope of a paragliding experience was soaked up by the rain.
We then headed back to Manali arriving at about 4.30. It was a tiring journey but I had a wonderful time and experience at the pass.
.................................................
It was time to say ‘goodbye’ to Manali. After spending a few days in the summer resort which is so full of fun and live, I kind of felt sad to leave. I knew I would miss the place.
I wanted to bid Dharam, the kind, gentle and friendly staff of our hotel, goodbye. But he was nowhere to be seen. The hotel seemed extra quiet that morning. The guests had either left for other places or had gone for their trekking trip.
Our next destination was 270km away down south.
We were travelling alongside River Beas, the same route as we were on when we travelled from Dharamsala to Manali, except that this time, we were on the other side of the river. We were going downhill most of the time, slowly leaving the snow-capped mountains behind. We had a good view of the Kullu Valley on our right. The road was winding but not as winding as the one to Rohtang Pass.
After days of many mountain views and winding roads, any more of these could no longer evoke any excitement in us. Instead, I set my mind and eyes upon Shimla – capital of Himachal Pradesh, Queen of the hill stations and once the summer capital of the British Raj.
Eating (snacks) and sleeping were the ‘highlights’ of the journey while being kept entertained by the Tamil and Hindi songs coming from the car stereo.
We were losing ‘height’ fast and by the time we reached Kullu town (1,219m), which is 40km from Manali, we were running directly next to River Beas. On the way, we passed by farmland of mainly wheat and apple and plum orchards.
The balmy weather gave way to the searing heat as we descended.
Gradually, we were climbing back up again and once again, the pleasant and cool weather returned, a welcoming respite.
By the time we reached Shimla at about 6.15, we were exhausted. I could not wait to get to the room to unwind myself. Much to my chagrin, the officer seemed to be taking forever to record our particulars into his record book.
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